Columns of people, hundreds strong, moved northward from Gaza City to Jabalia on Sunday as a ceasefire took effect in the Palestinian territory.
They walked past countless buildings reduced to rubble after months of heavy fighting.
In some areas, they crossed a landscape of pulverised concrete and collapsed structures, with dust filling the air as vehicles and feet disturbed the sandy soil on roads stripped of paving.
Even where pavement remained, it was covered in layers of debris.
“We came here at six in the morning to find massive, unprecedented destruction,” said Walid Abu Jiab, a displaced resident returning to Jabalia. “There is nothing left in the north worth living for,” he added.
Former apartment buildings on both sides of the road lay in ruins, destroyed by Israeli shelling and airstrikes during a military operation that focused heavily on northern Gaza.
Fuad Abu Jilboa, another displaced resident, described the devastation as “indescribable destruction, unlike anything history has ever witnessed before or since.”
Despite the grim scene, Sunday was filled with moments of joy. In Khan Yunis, armed men paraded in pick-up trucks, raising Kalashnikovs and firing into the air to celebrate the ceasefire.
Hundreds of people gathered, chanting, playing drums, and waving Palestinian flags.
“This joy is more beautiful than the joy of Eid, and this is the most beautiful pleasure,” a man said from his car window, which was packed with family members and belongings.
“I’m going to Rafah,” he added, as the car came to a halt due to the crowd of celebrating Palestinians.
In Rafah, Gaza’s southernmost city, people returned in large numbers, even before the ceasefire officially began.
Israel delayed the agreement by almost three hours, citing the need for a hostage list from Hamas.
The conflict, triggered by a surprise attack on Israel by Hamas on October 7, 2023, caused 1,210 deaths in Israel, mostly civilians.
Retaliatory attacks by Israel in Gaza have resulted in at least 46,913 deaths, according to figures from the territory’s health ministry, which the UN deems reliable.
“The residents have returned to Rafah, even though it is no longer a city. Thousands of citizens are on their way back,” said Muhammad al-Shaer, a displaced resident.
People carried whatever they could on trucks, carts, bicycles, and even on foot—water tanks, mattresses, and other belongings.
In Nuseirat, jubilant children filled the streets, while Hamas security forces patrolled.
In Gaza City, bulldozers began clearing streets of debris accumulated over 15 months of halted public services.
Gaza City spokesman Asem Alnabih wrote on X: “We are starting today to reopen the main roads in Gaza City, preparing for the return of our displaced citizens.”
Amid the ruins, there is determination to rebuild. Walid Abu Jalboa from Jabalia said: “God willing, with our will, faith in God, and strength, we will rebuild and live.”